Published on March 25th, 2018
610 Day Countdown to Japan
Just a quick check-in here as the final days blur by til I once again hop on a silver cigar-tube (or three!) and fly off to the Land of the Rising Sun.
I’ve been (happily) knee-deep in digital research here for weeks now, and I must say…
In a way, it seems planning/traveling in highly developed countries like Japan is far more complex/troublesome than say… dropping into a developing country like Myanmar or Nepal or Peru. With the latter bunch, it’s mostly a simple matter of hailing a stray tuk-tuk or cheapo taxi from the airport to my hotel for a pittance. Likewise economical local buses and collectivos to the country’s distant corners abound in the developing World. And a most economical place to sleep can easily be had with little advance or fuss.
Not so with Japan. Yes, yes, Japan’s transport system is truly a marvel, and those bullet trains (at near 200 mph!) surely are handy for whizzing hither ‘n yon to the far reaches of the country. But it all comes with a price (both literally and figuratively). The dizzying system of crisscrossing train lines, subways, buses and whatnot is not for the fainthearted. And hailing a taxi? Fergetaboutit – we’re talkin’ $200+ for an airport transfer.
And hotels too aren’t cheap – especially in the uber-busy “sakura” season (the short cherry blossom season). Though I did manage to snag a selection of comfy and convenient dorm beds in Tokyo and Kyoto for <$25 per night, that was only because I prudently locked them in nearly 4 months in advance. Indeed, my reserved April sleeps are now running at twice the price or more – IF you can even find an available room in Kyoto.
All which is to say, unlike my usual favor of “winging it” in my travels, Japan verily REQUIRES that one plan most every moment in advance. Leastwise if you happen to be a budget traveler heading there at the height of those luscious cherry blossoms.
Thus I’ve now necessarily gone BLIND seeking out all manner of details on what I hope to do in my brief (11.5 days on the ground) visit, how best to arrange my itinerary, and every trick I can find to maximize my time and nip down the costs.
For starters, I’ll definitely be buying a “JR Rail Pass”. Though at ~$300 for a 7 day pass, not exactly peanuts. Nonetheless a HUGE savings in train fares for swiftly whizzing to the far corners (Nagano, Kyoto and Hiroshima) I plan to visit from Tokyo.
I’ve also downloaded several new phone apps to help me unravel the mysteries of navigating Japan’s convoluted transport system (Navitime), along with deciphering those (oh so pretty, but bewildering) Japanese kanji (Microsoft Translator). Not only does the latter work (off-line – yay!) with both typing and speaking English-to-Japanese (with handy audio for pronunciation), but I can point my phone at kanji writing and it will likewise translate it!
And though I’ve left my day-to-day activity (and especially EAT) options utterly open to whim and serendipity, trust that I’ve made myself a personal “Dy Does Japan” guidebook (both digital on my phone, as well as a printed hard copy if/when my phone battery fails) with stray tidbits and details on what all I hope to see/do in my skip through Tokyo’s many diverse neighborhoods, Nagano, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, et al.
Oh and – speaking of “skipping”… This milestone trip comes with an extra (unexpected) wrinkle. Compliments of a long-ago fall that alarmingly began acting up recently, I (necessarily/reluctantly) had knee surgery little more than a month ago. The good news is that the (arthroscopic) surgery proved amazingly easy-peasy, and I’m now walking (well o.k. carefully hobbling) without a cane. But in any case, with less than 2 more weeks to mend – needless to say I’ll not be skipping quite as wantonly as I usually do in my travels, and will likely be more cautious hopping on/off those many tangled Japanese trains and subway cars.
None.the.less. NO WAY will I let some silly surgery stop me from exploring a new foreign land.
It’s FULL SPEED AHEAD for this dodderin’ lass’ 50th country!
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Hey Dyanne,
Thanks for the tips. My partner and I are traveling to Japan in October from Cuenca. We will visiting as many places as we can as we are staying for 11 weeks and bringing lots of cash. I know this to be an expensive place. Any tips will help.
October eh, Cynthia? (Much like the visually stunning “sakura” blossom season), just in time for the autumn colors. And oh my *11 weeks* – lucky you! While I have all the time in world, alas at Japan prices, I had to limit my stay to less than 2 weeks. lol, I actually looked up EFL (English) teaching jobs in Japan in order to stay longer! 😉
And yes, trust that I shall be pecking details upon my return. Are you now living in Cuenca? We should meet for almuerzo.
Onward to Number Five-Oh! When you talk about Japan’s big buck costs I can definitely see why you’re abandoning your “wing and a prayer” style of traveling and getting serious with pre-planning your hotels/hostels. Traveling during cherry blossom time sounds spendier but then, this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip as well as a big-time marker on your travel history ruler. I imagine that, with most of the drudgery of actually sorting through and booking suitable rooms out of the way, the fun research will continue along with the countdown to ‘Blast Off!’
Yes Anita, those cherry blossoms were the impetus for choosing Japan for my milestone country. And it definitely demands more diligent planning. But I’ve left all my days open to whim and serendipity (which happily, seems to follow me wherever I roam!)
And I must say – it is precisely the “unpredictability” (is that even a word?) of my many travels in the developing world (as well my dodderin’ fondness for my early travels without smart phones and selfie-sticks) that I rather miss.
Still… no doubt there will be plenty of surprises ahead in Japan (both happy and challenging, e.g. when – not IF – I get lost amid the maze of Tokyo’s transit system!) 😉
I envy those who can do what I can’t: visit Japan for the first time. Given that you’re both BLIND and open to whim, I have some suggestions.
Miyajima? If tide is <100 cm it's mud to the famous torjii gate, at 250+ cm it appears to be floating.
East of Hiroshima is Saijo – The Sake Town. Eight small venerated sake breweries cluster in a rabbit-warren-type neighborhood of narrow streets and old buildings very near a train station. The oldest one was founded in 1675. Some date to the 19th century, the newest are from the first 2 decades of the 20th century. http://blog.hinomaple.com/2012/09/04/saijo-hiroshima/
Less than 100m from one of the most spectacular temples in Kyoto, is Yoegnin, known for a 'blood ceiling' and a 'nightingale floor'. I wrote: http://speedofwhim.tumblr.com/post/62989891520/blood-ceiling-and-nightingale-floor
And on the practical side, a list of attractions closed or hampered by construction: https://www.japan-guide.com/event/construction.html It says one of the 2 buildings at the Peace Memorial Museum in Hiroshima is closed. But not which one. At the risk of being called Capt. Obvious, there is a Huge emotional difference in the 'Why it was a target' building and the 'Because it was a target' building.
Yes, ever open to whim here, Bill – thanks for even more options (yeah, like I needed MORE!) 😉 But seriously, those “nightingale” floors sound (pun intended) most intriguing, and looks like the Yoegnin temple is less than a 20 min. stroll from Kyoto station. And as for Hiroshima, I’m not too into sake, so will likely not make it to Saijo.
But trust that – as a once avid Pacific Northwest clam digger – I’ve already bookmarked the tide tables for Miyajimi. Yes, apparently some favor visiting at low tide (‘cuz you can walk out to it and get pics from under the torii), while others favor a high tide floating vision. Unfortunately, my visit to Hiroshima will be but a day’s dash on the bullet train, so my options are limited. I happen to prefer the “floating” view (i.e. no tourists/selfie sticks to contend with), but… on the days I might be there, looks like high tide is either too early or a bit too late to catch the return bullet train back to Kyoto. ;(
In any case, much like the sakura blossoms (which alas, seem to be opening more than a week early this year – ack!) I actually favor letting some aspects of traveling just unfold naturally. Better not to try to control Nature, etc. – but rather, just let my visit to Miyajima (and indeed, in large part to Japan in general) be – whatever it will be.