Europe ’24 Trifecta: London
Initially, London was merely a convenient hub as a layover enroute to my main target for this trip: Ireland. I’d been to London before – albeit more than 4 decades ago – with my two dd’s (then age 8 & 11 yrs) in tow. As I dimly recall…
| That visit was in March of ’79, and upon arrival (on “PanAm” – remember them?) from Seattle, we were shocked by how bitter cold it was in London. We’d (somehow? w/o benefit of the almighty “WWW”, which was still nearly 20 yrs. away) rented an apartment in central London that… turns out – we had to keep feeding “2 pence” coins (~2¢) into a meter for 30 min. of HEAT! Ah but we eventually managed to find a London thrift shop (“Oxfam”, the English equivalent to our trusty shoestring-student-single-mom standby – the good ol’ U.S. of A. “Goodwill”) where we grabbed 3 warm sweaters to ward off the London chill.
I did have the legendary “Europe on $5 a Day” bible clutched to my chest, and we managed to see the usual London sights – Buckingham Palace, Changing of the Guard, Tower Bridge (the iconic “pretty one” that many folks think is London Bridge – the latter, not the least bit IG worthy). We also (somehow? to this day, I have no clue as to how this near-penniless student-single-mom managed to afford it) apparently (according to my now grown-mother of 3 dd Alyson) the three of us had Afternoon Tea at the RITZ! Oh, and… (likely thanks only to a similar “Budget Tip” in that indispensable Frommer guide) all of us had our hair cut at the famous (e.g. the Mia Farrow cut) “Vidal Sassoon” hair salon – at cheapo rates, as “models” for the VS students. |
Ah but all that was (OMG!) nearly a half-CENTURY ago? And clearly one’s travel interests (not to mention any given destination) can change significantly over time.
Funny How Things Change…
Indeed, in my early solo travels, I mainly sought out the more off-the-beaten-path, rural, “exotic” destinations: e.g. Belize in ’85 (when few had even HEARD of that country); lonely pristine islands (the idyllic San Blas isles of Panama – I’m looking at YOU), misty cloud forests, jungles, remote clusters of indigenous Hill Tribes in Asia, yak pastures in Mongolia, a local roast “babi guiling” (whole pig) ceremony in the far north of Bali (far from the nutso hordes of tourists in Ubud and Kuta). These have all long been my favored travel targets.
But as a veteran solo DIY traveler, I lately find myself appreciating the many eclectic attractions that large cities have on offer. Likely due in part to living in my beloved (albeit less exciting perhaps than the likes of London, or Tokyo or Istanbul) Cuenca, Ecuador. Indeed, while I absolutely ADORE expiating in my sweet Cuenca (pop. ~600k) perched atop this 400+ foot mountain in the Ecuadorian Andes – clearly it can’t compete with a World capital like London in professional theater, world-class museums and an astonishing variety of ethnic foods (my FAVE!) from every corner of the globe.
Which (FINALLY!) brings me to… what-all I actually enjoyed in my 9 nts. in London.
Needless to say, I’d diligently done my digital homework, and had quiiiite the bountiful list of wanna-doos. But of course no way could I possibly hope to sample but a fraction of them on my limited time on this visit to London.
Furthermore, after nailing-down tickets to a boatload of live theater: the legendary “Hamilton” (an excellent seat for but £103 – that initially sold for $1,000+ per ticket when it debuted in NYC 9 years ago!), along with the British classic, “Matilda”, Agatha Christie’s “The Mousetrap” (70 yrs in the London running), and the renowned “ABBA Voyage” concert…
A most rare bit of serendipity presented itself: As you all well know – I’ve long been an avowed S.O.L.O. traveler. But suddenly my life-long (well, 40+ years) chum Chuck in D.C opted to meet-up with me for a week in London! Fortunately, he was able to get tickets for all of the above (save the “Mousetrap”) – seated very close to my seats. And indeed, I must say – it was great to have a travel pal for a change, and it prompted adding a few of his unique travel druthers to our London itinerary that I otherwise hadn’t considered.
Which brings me to…
The Many Fabulous London Experiences I/We Enjoyed
(and one that I um… didn’t)
- The aforementioned “Hamilton”, “Matilda” and “ABBA” concerts (sans the “Mousetrap” which I’ll get to in more detail in a moment…). All three magnificent – especially ABBA, a (no exaggeration) once-in-a-lifetime, unique affair (the on-stage holograms of the young band utterly amazing, and the *real* ABBA foursome, now (like me) in their 70’s – appeared IN PERSON at the grand finale!)
- My first day out of the gate (solo, before Chuck arrived the following day), I spent reveling in my three favorite pastimes: munching my way through a dizzying array of eateries along Brick Lane (incl. a sumptuous “Salt Beef Bagel” that I shall ever dream of), gawking at the abundant street art (including Banksy’s latest “Swinging Monkeys”), and… verily DROWNING in the wondrous vintage clothing thrift shops at every turn!
- Day two (half solo as “the Plan” was to meet Chuck for the Banksy exhibit at 3 pm) but… Suffice I managed to stuff my face at Borough market (esp. the seafood paella – yum!) and marvel at the Anthony McCall immersive “Solid Light” exhibit at the Tate Modern, when um… disaster struck! Indeed, sadly – neither the Banksy nor the Mousetrap happened. 🙁 Stay tuned for the full (painful) details at the base of this post.
- Stray calamities aside – moving on to some of Chuck and my shared activities: The following day (another “once-in-a-lifetime”) “Van Gogh: Poets and Lovers” exhibit at the National Gallery. A breathtaking collection of more than *60* ORIGINAL Van Gogh paintings and sketches, gathered from museums and private collections all over the globe.
- The luscious assortment of eats at the Food Halls of the World’s leading luxury store: “Harrod’s”. Narrowing down the drool-worthy options was difficult, but we each grabbed our faves and munched on them picnic-style outside in the London sunshine before heading to the amazing London production of “Hamilton”.
- Yes, yes – remarkably – we had near PERFECT weather in London for our entire late September stay!
- A most authentic (non-touristy) affair with local Brits: “Quiz Night” at a local pub in Chelsea. Chuck and I are both avid “quiz night” afficionados – I once enjoyed such among a gaggle of expats in South Africa, and we both once participated in Chuck’s regular Quiz Night in D.C. For this Brit-centric quiz? Suffice we were the only outliers and… (not surprisingly) our team came in dead-LAST! 😉
- Another unusual leastwise for me: an “Inns of Court” guided legal walking tour – especially of interest to my friend as he was an attorney for years before he retired.
- A most fabulous Afternoon Tea (with bubbly!) at the (5-star) Royal Horseguards Hotel overlooking the Thames. Especially nice to share such w/ a companion, I’d scoured the www for weeks to unearth a posh AT affair (most hovered in the £70+ range (nearly $100!), but I stumbled upon a TIMEOUT London discount at the Horseguards for just £34.50 each!
- The awesome (uber-extensive) Churchill War Rooms. Incredibly fascinating and could easily take a full day (we spent nearly three hours there).
- And after? Why a photo op of the iconic London “Red Telephone Booth” (w/ “Big Ben” in the background) of course!
- A (quickie!) glimpse of the British Museum (a 90″ guided tour of the globe’s most impressive icons). Chuck slept in for this one – I met him after for the (seriously fun) production of “Matilda!“
- A most extraordinary light dinner at… a London LOO! I mean, who gets to nosh on a shared charcuterie tray of delish meats and cheeses – in a restored Victorian public TOILET beneath the streets of London? That plus… I stole a sip of Chuck’s “Espresso Martini” and fairly fell-off-my-chair in a swoon!
- Among the absolute HIGHLIGHTS of my entire visit to London – I went MUDLARKING on the Thames! Chuck sat this one out (um, slogging around in the mud along the Thames? I can’t imagine why he’d prefer to sleep in) 😉 But for me (ever the avid “treasure hunter” in all manner of guises e.g. “geocaching” anyone?) I was THRILLED to be able to search the river’s shore at low-tide for bits of 16th century clay pipes, Roman pottery shards, etc. My mudlarking morning dawned a bit grim – typically British for late September: gray and drizzly. But by the time I met up w/ my guided group, the sky had cleared and we all had great fun collecting plenty of stray bits of London history. Indeed, I managed to tote home a small handful of precious pottery bits (albeit none of legal historical significance) to frame here at Casa Dyannita.
- As you know – the TL is nothing if not a most voracious travel foodie. And rest assured I tossed down many delicious London eats in my short stay. Especially memorable: my long-lusted-after Burmese “lahpet thoke” (fermented tea leaf salad) that I first discovered in Yangon, Myanmar more than a decade ago. Indeed, I even wrangled a packet of the precious tea leaves from the chef, and they’re presently (still) fresh in my fridge here in Cuenca – awaiting a homemade fabrication of the salad right here at Cocina Dyannita. Indeed, I could (and well might) write an entire TL tome on the wide variety of delish eats I enjoyed in my near month’s wander around London, Belgium and Ireland. But for now…
- I simply HAVE to extoll THE most AMAZING meal of (pretty much) my entire LIFE that I had with my chum Chuck in London: a traditional “Sunday Roast” at the Mayflower Pub (yes, THAT “Mayflower” – the one that carried the first gaggle of pale-faced pilgrims to Plymouth Rock more than 500 years ago). The full-meal British deal with all the trimmings: uber-tender and juicy roast beef, a HUGE “Yorkshire pudding”, mashed potatoes, horseradish sauce (my fave!) and… THE most smokey/tender roasted carrots and potatoes on the entire PLANET! Seriously. I shan’t soon forget that incredibly delicious meal along the banks of the Thames shared with my dear friend in London.
- The following day (after a spectacular evening of live ABBA tunes) I bid farewell to Chuck and hopped on the Eurostar to Belgium. But upon my return to London (back to my customary “ever solo” again) I enjoyed not one, but two of my top London experiences: First, a “Full English Breakfast” at Nora’s Cafe near my (2nd) hotel in East London: 2 eggs, 2 chunks of bacon, sausage, hash browns, mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, and of course… Black Pudding and BEANS!
- And after that prodigious breakfast repast, I (finally – 3rd time’s the charm!) made my way (back) to St. Martin’s on the Green (Chuck and I had tried twice earlier but they were always closed/just closing) – and… made my very own medieval motif brass rubbing as a souvenir of London!
Whew!
And that’s just the 7 full days I had on the ground in London! Sounds mighty idyllic, no? And indeed it all was. World-class theater, a mind-blowing ABBA concert, fabulous eats at every turn, and a wide variety of eclectic activities shared with a dear old friend. All even more amazing than I could ever have imagined. Except for…
Um, one (not-so-teensy) wrinkle in the otherwise flawless plan.
A (near) Disaster!
Indeed, on but my 2nd day solo in London. Full disclosure: shortly have leaving the “Solid Light” exhibit at the Tate Modern (which coincidentally was set amid complete and utter DARKNESS, and thus I do believe contributed to the calamity that followed immediately thereafter) – as I was casually walking down a brightly sunlit street… I suddenly stumbled and FELL! Right there on a perfectly smooth, paved sidewalk. Several people kindly helped me to my feet, and I was able to stand, but… suffice I’d landed on my left arm/elbow and OMG, it hurt like holy H-E-double hocky-sticks! 🤕
I was afraid that I’d broken something, but I was able to move it (albeit gingerly, with a wince-worthy amount of pain). I mean – at near EIGHT decades, these ol’ bones are arguably a tad brittle, no? And while I did have travel insurance (of course!) to cover such accidents, nonetheless… In my usual dogged “Wonder Woman” response to calamity – I was DETERMINED to not let a little (or maybe not-so-little, hard to say…) mishap prevent me from enjoying my remaining days in London (much less Belgium and another 11 days in Ireland).
In short, I did prudently head straight back to my hotel (rather than meet up in Soho w/ my friend Chuck for the Banksy exhibit, as well as the “Mousetrap” play I had a solo ticket for that evening). Instead, I headed back “home” to further assess the damages, and texted Chuck that we might have errr… a bit of a change of plans.
The lad kindly brought me a couple of gel cold packs, and we opted to take it easy that evening and just head out for a simple dinner in Brick Lane near my hotel. And indeed we did – first we stumbled upon a fantastic French bistro (“Chez Elles Bistroquet”) and ordered wine and tapas. lol, after the first glass of vino, my arm was (seemingly) feeling a whole lot better. After, I led him back to Lahpet, the Burmese restaurant I’d been to the night before for tea leaf salad. And again, sipping a delicious “Betel Juice” cocktail (made with vodka and “betel leaf” – a known euphoric stimulant much like chewing tobacco – popular in Burma for centuries) – my arm seemed to be far less painful by the minute. 😉
In short, while that arm never stopped hurting (even to this day, back in Cuenca), I simply put up with the pain (w/ copious doses of ibuprofen) and I tenaciously/stubbornly moved ever forward doing most everything in Europe that I’d so long planned.
Admittedly the near-constant pain necessarily colored most everything I did in London, Belgium and Ireland thereafter, but… Clearly it takes more than a (possibly) fractured limb to keep the TravelnLass down!
P. S. New here and curious who I am? Check my bio to learn more! Better yet, subscribe to my email list (so you never miss a single post) and get a pdf of my 30+ Best Travel Tips (trust me, at least one is sure to be a revelation).
About the Author
Dyanne Off-the-beaten-path travel is my passion,and I’ve always lived life “like-a-kid-in-a-candy-store” – eager to sample as many flavors as I can. Indeed, my life motto has long been: This ain’t a dress rehearsal, folks!
Off-the-beaten-path travel is my passion, and I’ve always lived life “like a kid in a candy store” – eager to sample as many flavors as I can. Indeed, my life motto has long been:
